WARNING

The suggestions given on this webpage are for emergency use only. In certain circumstances, using improvised parts to make car repairs can invalidate your car warranty. Do so only as a strictly temporary measure, and when driving conditions in your judgement make such repairs safe.

Mechanical clutches

Cable failure. Sudden failure of a mechanical clutch is almost always due to a snapped cable. But on certain cars it is also possible for the cable to become disconnected from the pedal linkage.

Cable anchorage broken. Clutch cables have their outer cable secured at both ends. If the anchorage points rust away or become enlarged the whole cable will move and the clutch will not operate properly.

Hydraulic clutches

No hydraulic fluid. If when you check the clutch master cylinder you discover that it is empty then it is likely that you have a leak from either the master or slave cylinders, clutch fluid pipe or a bleed nipple.

Air in the system. If the clutch fluid level is low it is possible that air has entered the system causing a spongy, poorly operating clutch.

Linkage fault. If the pedal is completely without resistance there could be a fault in the linkage between pedal and master cylinder.

A cable which has broken at one end can often be reused provided you can slacken off the adjusters to free enough cable. You will then have to make up a nipple or clamp to secure the cable end. A small Mole grip or an undersized bolt hammered into a nut will make a substitute nipple. Two large washers, a nut and bolt can be used as a cable clamp.

If the cable has snapped along its length you will need a genuine replacement — clutch cables take too much strain for you to use string or wire.

If the cable anchorage has rusted away or broken loose you must find a way of securing the outer cable. Usually the most effective way of doing this is to use a Mole grip.

A leaking bleed nipple should be tightened, the master cylinder refilled with hydraulic fluid and the system bled.

Leaking seals should be replaced but this is not really a roadside repair. So try refilling and bleeding the system — if the leak is a slow one this may be enough to get you home but avoid overusing the clutch and check the level if gearchanging becomes increasingly difficult. Engine oil can be used instead of hydraulic fluid in an emergency but it will give a very heavy and slow action. Drive with extra care and flush the system thoroughly afterwards.

Air in the system usually means you have a leak but can also be caused by a very low fluid level, Top up the fluid as necessary and then bleed the system. If the fluid level is normal and no leaks are apparent try pumping the pedal to see whether you can get enough clutch to change gear. If this works remember to pump the pedal each time you change gear.

A linkage fault is most likely to be due to the loss of a locking nut or pin. Simply reassemble the linkage and secure with wire, an old nail or a suitable nut and bolt.