WARNING

The suggestions given on this webpage are for emergency use only. In certain circumstances, using improvised parts to make car repairs can invalidate your car warranty. Do so only as a strictly temporary measure, and when driving conditions in your judgement make such repairs safe.


engine splutters to a halt
before checking fuel line remove the battery earth lead to eliminate the risk of sparks
The cause of an engine spluttering to a halt is nearly always fuel starvation. The symptoms are quite easily distinguished from the 'switched off effect of an electrical failure, which is much more abrupt


What to do when: Engine Splutters to a halt!

What it could mean

No petrol — blocked tank breather. Despite what your fuel gauge reads you could simply have run out of petrol.

 

Alternatively, you may have a blocked tank breather causing a vacuum in the fuel tank which is holding back the fuel.

 

 

fuel line fuel pump

 

 

Blocked fuel line or fuel line filter. If you have bought dirty petrol or nearly run your tank dry, your fuel line may have become clogged. Suspect this problem if your car will run at medium speed but stutters at high speed or stalls at idle.

If you have just driven over rough roads then it is also possible that you may have squashed one of the steel fuel lines that runs under the car.

Fuel line filters can also become clogged and some varieties will only pass a high volume of petrol if fitted the right way round.

 

 

Carburettor or injectors blocked. Any dirt in the fuel line sooner or later ends up in the carburettor or fuel injector rail where it can do most harm. On fixed-jet carburettors dirt will block jets. On variable-jet carburettors it can jam the piston. On all types of carburettor it can block the fuel jet.

 

 

Faulty fuel pump. If you have fuel it could be that it is not being pumped to the carburettor or fuel injectors. There are two basic types of pump: mechanical (very old system and now rare) and electrical. Both are equally vulnerable to blocking up but the electric pump is the most prone to sudden failure. It is becoming increasingly common for electric pumps to be fitted inside the fuel tank.

 

old style external mechanical fuel pump

 

 

electric fuel pump

What you can do

Check for fuel by removing the filler cap and rocking the car. If you suspect that the remaining petrol is below the feed pipe try jacking up the rear of the car or bouncing it up and down. If even a cupful of fuel reaches the carburettor/fuel injectors it will mean that you can travel another kilometre or so.

 

 

If when you removed the filler cap you heard or felt an inrush of air, you have a blockedbreather. If the breather is in the cap or otherwise easily accessible, clear it with piece of soft wire. If you are unable to do this, just stop every few kilometres and remove the cap until you can have it repaired.

 

 

 

 

fuel tank and breather line

 

Check all the fuel pipes visually. Look for leaks, loose joints and, in the metal part of the line, dents which could obstruct the flow. This done, remove each part of the line and blow through it. A blocked pipe may be cleared with a length of soft wire. A split, squashed or severely blocked pipe should be cut out or removed and replaced with a suitable piece of hose clamped in place with hose clips. Check that fuel line filters are unblocked and fitted correctly — if in doubt take them out.

 

 

damaged fuel line

 

 

 

Fitting an auxiliary pump

An unrepairable pump, mechanical or electrical, can be replaced with an electric pump. Wire the new pump directly to the battery and ensure that the leads are well insulated. Disconnect the live feed wire when you switch off the engine.

Do not use a windscreen washer or similar type of pump - while this might work these pumps are not sparkproof and could ignite the fuel.

 

 

 

 

Check a mechanical fuel pump by first removing the fuel line from the carburettor side of the pump. Then reconnect the battery and turn the engine over. If petrol spurts from the pump — it is working. If not, check that the pump is securely mounted on the engine. Then, if possible, remove the fuel bowl (if fitted) and check that the filter is clear. If it is, remove the top part of the pump and check that the diaphragm is intact. If it is split you can try making a replacement from a piece of thick polythene, or rubber. If the diaphragm is intact check that the valves are not clogged with silt.

A pump which has no obvious fault may simply be worn. If you suspect this, remove the pump from the engine, operate the lever a few times by hand and then replace the pump using a thinner gasket — or if it only has a thin one, without the gasket. This will effectively make the pump work harder and may improve its efficiency.

 

Check an electric fuel pump by first removing the fuel pipe on the carburettor/fuel injector side of the pump. Then reconnect the battery and switch on the ignition. If the pump is working it will make a ticking sound and petrol should flow out. If the pump is not working, try giving it a sharp tap with a screwdriver handle. If this fails, check its electrical connections — particularly the earth which is usually through the pump's mounting bolts. If no power is reaching the pump, wire it to the battery. Some pumps can be partially dismantled to give access to contact breaker points. Check that these are clean.

If it is in the tank, as most are now, try to hear it run before you attempt to turn the engine over. You will have to get a tow truck if this is the fault.

 

 

Dirt in the carburettor usually accumulates in the float chamber so remove this first. Clean out any sediment with a clean cloth, check that the fuel needle operates and that the float moves freely and is not punctured. A punctured float can be repaired with epoxy resin filler or adhesive. If the float chamber is clean, the rest of the carburettor will probably be so too — but on a fixed-jet carburettor check that all the main jets are clear and on variable-jet carburettors check that the piston rises and falls smoothly and that the dashpot has oil in it. A piston may stick due to dirt or an off centre main jet. You can centralize the main jet by loosening the locking nut, tapping the jet until the piston drops smoothly and then retightening the nut. An empty dashpot can be filled with engine oil from the dipstick.

 

carburettor blockage

 

injectors blocked

 

 

 

 

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